|
GREENCAP
The Committee for Alternatives to Pesticides
TIP
1. Tailor your lawn care program to local conditions.
What type of soil do you have? A healthy lawn needs
soil with good texture, key nutrients and the right pH (acidity/alkalinity
balance). The best soil has a pH of 6.5 to 7. For soil
that is too acidic, add lime; for soil that's not acid enough, add
sulfur.
Is the soil heavy with clay, light and
sandy? To get a good "loamy" soil periodically add organic
matter such as compost, manure, or grass clippings. Organic matter
helps to lighten a predominantly clay soil and it helps sandy soil
retain water and nutrients.
Is the soil packed from heavy use?
To loosen compacted soil, aerate several times a year. This requires
pulling out plugs of soil to create air spaces, so water and nutrients
can penetrate to the grass roots.
What is the best grass type for your needs?
How much rain do you get? Is your lawn in sun or shade?
Grasses vary in the type of climate they prefer, the amount of water
and nutrients they need, their resistance to pests, their tolerance
for shade and the degree of wear they can withstand. Don't fight
a losing battle in certain spots where grass just doesn't grow well.
Choose shade-loving ground covers more suited to the conditions.
TIP
2. Mow high.
Mow high (2-1/2" to 3-1/2") to produce healthier grass that will
survive drought, tolerate insect damage and fend off diseases. Tall
grass will grow thick and develop deeper roots. It also shades
the soil, keeping it cooler, helping it retain moisture, and making
it difficult for weeds to germinate and grow. Keep the mower
blades sharp to prevent tearing and injuring the grass. Mow often
enough so that you never cut more than one-third of the height of
the grass blades. Leave clippings on the grass to recycle nitrogen.
TIP
3. Water slowly and deeply, only when the lawn needs it.
Every lawn's watering needs are unique. Consider the amount of local
rainfall, the grass and soil type, and the general health of the
lawn. The best rule is to water only when the lawn begins to wilt
from dryness--when the color dulls and foot prints stay compressed
for more than a few seconds. Imitate a slow soaking rain by
using trickle irrigation, soaker hoses, and other water-conserving
methods. Water in the early morning to reduce evaporation.
Apply about an inch of water--enough that it soaks 6-8 inches into
the soil. Avoid frequent shallow watering which trains the roots
to stay near the surface and makes the lawn less able to tolerate
dry periods.
TIP
4. Correct Thatch Build-Up.
Some grasses tend to form a thick layer of thatch. Thatch is more
likely when chemicals have killed the beneficial organisms. Overuse
of fertilizer can also create thatch. More than 1/2 inch of
thatch keeps water and nutrients from getting into the soil and
to the grass roots. Reduce thatch by raking the lawn or using a
machine that breaks it up. Sprinkling a thin layer of topsoil or
compost over the lawn will also help. In a healthy lawn, micro-organisms
and earthworms help keep the thatch layer in balance by decomposing
it and releasing the nutrients into the soil.
TIP
5. Have Realistic Goals.
Whether you or a lawn care service do the work, it is important
to have realistic goals for your lawn. A healthy lawn is a
dynamic ecosystem. It may have some weeds or insect pests and will
also have beneficial insects and other organisms that help keep
pests under control -- naturally.
TIP
6. Lawn grubs? crabgrass? poison ivy?
For organic lawn care advice and solutions to common lawn care problems consult Beautiful
Lawns, Naturally! a new booklet produced by the Wellesley
Pesticide Awareness Campaign (WPAC)and the Northeast Organic Farming
Association (NOFA)
Learn about our video, Naturally
Great Gardens and Landscapes: A Guide to Organic Care.
|
